This episode of the OutThere Colorado Podcast covers the host Spencer McKee's climb up what's considered to be Colorado's most dangerous standard fourteener route. It also digs into how many fourteeners there are and why the answer to that question isn't as straightforward as it seems.
Written and hosted by Spencer McKee
Produced by Sam Schoenecker
[00:00:05] [SPEAKER_00]: Ever wonder what it's like to climb the most dangerous 14er in Colorado?
[00:00:10] [SPEAKER_00]: And while we're at it, how many 14ers are even found in Colorado?
[00:00:15] [SPEAKER_00]: Welcome to The OutThere Colorado Podcast.
[00:00:18] [SPEAKER_00]: I'm your host, Spencer McKee.
[00:00:20] [SPEAKER_00]: Let's start the show.
[00:00:29] [SPEAKER_00]: This episode of The Out There Colorado Podcast was written by me, Spencer McKee, and has
[00:00:34] [SPEAKER_00]: been produced in-house by Sam Shinaker, where come to you from the beautiful city of Colorado
[00:00:38] [SPEAKER_00]: Springs, Colorado?
[00:00:39] [SPEAKER_00]: Yeah.
[00:00:40] [SPEAKER_00]: This first portion of the show today is the story about my climb to the summit of Little Bear
[00:00:44] [SPEAKER_00]: Peak.
[00:00:45] [SPEAKER_00]: Enjoy!
[00:00:58] [SPEAKER_00]: Getting back to the vehicle after a long 14er peak bagging climb typically leaves me feeling
[00:01:03] [SPEAKER_00]: related with the sense of accomplishment.
[00:01:06] [SPEAKER_00]: With Little Bear Peak, that wasn't the case.
[00:01:09] [SPEAKER_00]: Upon finding my vehicle after nearly half a day in my riskiest mountain experience thus
[00:01:13] [SPEAKER_00]: far, I felt emotionally spent.
[00:01:15] [SPEAKER_00]: I wanted to feel excitement and thankfulness that I had survived the daunting endangerous climb
[00:01:20] [SPEAKER_00]: to the summit of the mountain, often called one of the most dangerous climbs on Colorado's
[00:01:25] [SPEAKER_00]: popular 14er list.
[00:01:26] [SPEAKER_00]: But instead, I mostly felt a sense of guilt, stemming from how easily I was able to toss
[00:01:31] [SPEAKER_00]: the instinctual motive of self preservation aside to scale the notorious route.
[00:01:37] [SPEAKER_00]: Little Bear Peak is found in Colorado's Sangrita Cristo Mountain Range, towering above
[00:01:41] [SPEAKER_00]: the San Luis Valley at a height of 14,000 37 feet.
[00:01:46] [SPEAKER_00]: Jagged ridges reach out from the summit with any route to the top being quite treacherous
[00:01:51] [SPEAKER_00]: and reserved only for experienced climbers.
[00:01:54] [SPEAKER_00]: The least technical route to the top is still quite technical, with a crux that means
[00:01:59] [SPEAKER_00]: scaling around 800 feet of near vertical terrain in a narrow gauly that acts as a funnel
[00:02:04] [SPEAKER_00]: for rocks falling from above, tackled by most without any sort of rope or protection
[00:02:08] [SPEAKER_00]: aside from an helmet.
[00:02:10] [SPEAKER_00]: Somebody in the peak is a daunting task indeed.
[00:02:13] [SPEAKER_00]: Even the route to the trailhead of Little Bear Peak is threatening, one of the roughest
[00:02:17] [SPEAKER_00]: four-wheel drive roads in Colorado with a number of features capable of tossing even a
[00:02:22] [SPEAKER_00]: seasoned back road traveler off the edge of a steep cliff.
[00:02:26] [SPEAKER_00]: Before I get into chatting more about the route itself, I can't stress enough how dangerous
[00:02:30] [SPEAKER_00]: this climb is.
[00:02:31] [SPEAKER_00]: Thus, my covering it is not me recommending it.
[00:02:34] [SPEAKER_00]: Those embarking on this climb must be experienced and fully aware of what they're getting
[00:02:38] [SPEAKER_00]: into, and even then the random threat of rockfall looms as a deadly and uncontrollable
[00:02:43] [SPEAKER_00]: risk throughout much of the most dangerous part of the climb.
[00:02:47] [SPEAKER_00]: Now let's chat about the route.
[00:02:50] [SPEAKER_00]: The standard southwest face route to the summit of Little Bear Peak consists of four main
[00:02:54] [SPEAKER_00]: parts with the hardest section being rated as class four technically.
[00:02:58] [SPEAKER_00]: In total of the route stretches for about 14 miles for most, with around 6200 feet
[00:03:04] [SPEAKER_00]: of vertical gain.
[00:03:05] [SPEAKER_00]: The first portion of this climb, at least for most, consists of a long walk up Lake
[00:03:10] [SPEAKER_00]: Como Road to an elevation of 11,750 feet.
[00:03:15] [SPEAKER_00]: This is the aforementioned four-wheel drive road that's extremely difficult to travel
[00:03:19] [SPEAKER_00]: and extremely dangerous, reserved for only the burliest of vehicles.
[00:03:24] [SPEAKER_00]: While some drivers may be able to make it up a portion of the road, most people are forced
[00:03:28] [SPEAKER_00]: to park roughly five miles away from the namesake lake and the trailhead for the route
[00:03:33] [SPEAKER_00]: up Little Bear Peak.
[00:03:34] [SPEAKER_00]: This means a five mile hike with 3,900 feet of vertical gain prior to any sort of actual
[00:03:40] [SPEAKER_00]: trail.
[00:03:41] [SPEAKER_00]: On top of that, it's not just the large obstacles along this route that make it difficult
[00:03:46] [SPEAKER_00]: for vehicles that are traveling it, but the road itself consists mostly of this size rocks,
[00:03:51] [SPEAKER_00]: ankle breakers that are too shifty to cover quickly on foot.
[00:03:56] [SPEAKER_00]: The next portion of the hike comes shortly after Lake Como Road hits the stunning Lake
[00:04:00] [SPEAKER_00]: Como.
[00:04:01] [SPEAKER_00]: At this point, Little Bear Peak climbers must find the right trailhead and then scale
[00:04:06] [SPEAKER_00]: a steep goalie filled with loose rock.
[00:04:09] [SPEAKER_00]: This portion of climbs about 600 feet to a notch on the ridge above.
[00:04:12] [SPEAKER_00]: Most climbers familiar with the class two and class three climbing in loose terrain will
[00:04:17] [SPEAKER_00]: find this section manageable though route finding can be a little tricky.
[00:04:21] [SPEAKER_00]: Once the ridge line notches gained, the third portion of the route is a section that comes
[00:04:25] [SPEAKER_00]: as a relief.
[00:04:25] [SPEAKER_00]: Climbers now traverse along a rocky side of the ridge with little vertical gain for a
[00:04:31] [SPEAKER_00]: mile or so while on their way to the fourth and final portion of the climb, the infamous
[00:04:35] [SPEAKER_00]: hourglass.
[00:04:37] [SPEAKER_00]: Rock canons lead the way during this traversing section helpful for distracted climbers
[00:04:41] [SPEAKER_00]: likely nervous about the final stretch of the route that slowly revealing itself in
[00:04:45] [SPEAKER_00]: the distance ahead.
[00:04:47] [SPEAKER_00]: Finally, the base of the hourglass is reached.
[00:04:50] [SPEAKER_00]: The hourglass is the reason Little Bear Peak is considered to be one of the most dangerous
[00:04:54] [SPEAKER_00]: standard route for a tino climbs in Colorado.
[00:04:58] [SPEAKER_00]: Nearly vertical and stretching roughly 800 feet from the gully below, the hourglass requires
[00:05:03] [SPEAKER_00]: climbers to scale it in a way that the layman would recognize as technical rock climbing.
[00:05:08] [SPEAKER_00]: To further complicate this portion of the route there's not much of a set path to follow,
[00:05:12] [SPEAKER_00]: forcing climbers to read holes as they reached them with serious consequences resulting
[00:05:16] [SPEAKER_00]: from a mistake.
[00:05:18] [SPEAKER_00]: Further endangering those in the hourglass is an extremely loose field of rock that sits
[00:05:23] [SPEAKER_00]: above the hazard.
[00:05:25] [SPEAKER_00]: Large rocks regularly drop into the steeper train below, crashing down in an unpredictable
[00:05:29] [SPEAKER_00]: manner that is a potentially fatal risk to all, regardless of experience and preparation.
[00:05:35] [SPEAKER_00]: This can be especially dangerous when multiple groups are in the hourglass section at
[00:05:39] [SPEAKER_00]: the same time with the group above potentially knocking rocks down on the group below.
[00:05:44] [SPEAKER_00]: Upon reaching the base of the hourglass, I paused, committed to the climb but cautious to
[00:05:49] [SPEAKER_00]: pick the correct route up the wall.
[00:05:52] [SPEAKER_00]: A support rope dangles down the center of the hourglass, though its integrity is often
[00:05:56] [SPEAKER_00]: brought into question.
[00:05:58] [SPEAKER_00]: Most advice against using it in aid to climb, unreliable due to constant exposure to
[00:06:03] [SPEAKER_00]: the elements and the many times it has been tied back together over the years.
[00:06:08] [SPEAKER_00]: I would later find out that the day's first group of climbers, one of three climbing
[00:06:12] [SPEAKER_00]: parties on the mountain that day, had pulled off a chunk of rope that was about 50 feet long
[00:06:16] [SPEAKER_00]: with a slight tug, putting the rope sketchy nature on display.
[00:06:20] [SPEAKER_00]: That being said, the second climbing party, a solo climber had told me in passing that
[00:06:25] [SPEAKER_00]: he successfully used the rope for balance while on his descent through the section.
[00:06:29] [SPEAKER_00]: Granted, he may have been more wary of doing so, had he known that part of the rope
[00:06:33] [SPEAKER_00]: had come off just hours before.
[00:06:36] [SPEAKER_00]: From my point at the bottom of the hourglass, I could see the rope many feet above my
[00:06:39] [SPEAKER_00]: head.
[00:06:40] [SPEAKER_00]: In the middle of the wall, the rope also happened to be resting in a flowing trickle of
[00:06:44] [SPEAKER_00]: snowmill, soaking it in the rock around it.
[00:06:47] [SPEAKER_00]: Knowing the rope might be unreliable, and wanting to avoid potentially slick rock, I
[00:06:52] [SPEAKER_00]: opted to start my descent of the hourglass via a more vertical option on the left side
[00:06:56] [SPEAKER_00]: of the shoot.
[00:06:57] [SPEAKER_00]: Slowly and surely, over the course of about an hour, I pushed up the 800 feet of rock
[00:07:02] [SPEAKER_00]: with care.
[00:07:03] [SPEAKER_00]: At someone who rock climbs very regularly, also donning my lighter gear kit, the climbing
[00:07:07] [SPEAKER_00]: felt relatively natural to me.
[00:07:10] [SPEAKER_00]: Yet, while the climbing felt natural, I already found myself growing nervous about the inevitable
[00:07:15] [SPEAKER_00]: down climb soon to come.
[00:07:18] [SPEAKER_00]: Once out of the hourglass, a little more class-to-climbing got me to the summit.
[00:07:23] [SPEAKER_00]: Clouds have been building overhead for the past hours, though rain was unlikely.
[00:07:28] [SPEAKER_00]: In fact, whether I'd been absolutely perfect with a favorable forecast ahead.
[00:07:32] [SPEAKER_00]: I explored the area a bit and snapped a few pictures, excited that I had reached the top,
[00:07:36] [SPEAKER_00]: but anxious about navigating a safe route down the mountain.
[00:07:40] [SPEAKER_00]: Eventually, I bid the summit farewell and started my walk toward the top of the hourglass
[00:07:44] [SPEAKER_00]: to prepare for my descent.
[00:07:46] [SPEAKER_00]: It was then that I realized how dangerous the hourglass really was.
[00:07:50] [SPEAKER_00]: Having ascended the hourglass without anyone above me, the much-discussed risk of falling
[00:07:54] [SPEAKER_00]: rock had yet to rear its head.
[00:07:56] [SPEAKER_00]: And then, with one wrong step, a close call made that risk quite apparent.
[00:08:02] [SPEAKER_00]: As I carefully moved around the rock field above the shoot, I heard a distinctive crack beneath
[00:08:06] [SPEAKER_00]: my foot.
[00:08:07] [SPEAKER_00]: If felt as if I had been crossing a frozen lake, only to hear a crack in the ice, both
[00:08:12] [SPEAKER_00]: and how my step had compromised the terrain, and in the way that sound made my heart skip
[00:08:15] [SPEAKER_00]: a beat.
[00:08:17] [SPEAKER_00]: The shelf of rocks I was on slowly started to move down slope toward a cliff about 100 feet
[00:08:22] [SPEAKER_00]: or so away.
[00:08:24] [SPEAKER_00]: I skampered to solid ground, fortunately able to make it before the rocks would have had
[00:08:28] [SPEAKER_00]: the chance to move beyond the point of no return and off the edge of the cliff.
[00:08:32] [SPEAKER_00]: In this case, the rocks stopped moving, though their unified motion made it easy to see
[00:08:37] [SPEAKER_00]: how momentum could result in a massive rock slide, sending a death trap into the hourglass
[00:08:42] [SPEAKER_00]: below.
[00:08:44] [SPEAKER_00]: My fears were soon confirmed on a much smaller scale when my foot kicked a rock about
[00:08:49] [SPEAKER_00]: the size of my fist down slope.
[00:08:51] [SPEAKER_00]: I yelled out rock loudly several times, though I assumed the stone would stop bouncing
[00:08:56] [SPEAKER_00]: sooner than later as it had been the case on many other loose slopes I travelled before.
[00:09:01] [SPEAKER_00]: But the rock didn't stop.
[00:09:02] [SPEAKER_00]: It kept bouncing down toward the hourglass feature.
[00:09:04] [SPEAKER_00]: Knocking one rock, then two rocks, then ten rocks loose along the way to follow its path
[00:09:10] [SPEAKER_00]: until it disappeared beyond the angle of the slope.
[00:09:13] [SPEAKER_00]: I hadn't seen anyone on the mountain behind me, but my mind immediately jumped to the
[00:09:16] [SPEAKER_00]: possibility that someone else may have made it into that gully, now put it risk due
[00:09:21] [SPEAKER_00]: to my accidental kick.
[00:09:22] [SPEAKER_00]: I yelled out rock again and again as loud as I could, though at this point the falling
[00:09:26] [SPEAKER_00]: rocks would have been obvious to anyone in the valley.
[00:09:29] [SPEAKER_00]: As the rocks made their way down the hourglass, they joined in chorus to create the rolling
[00:09:34] [SPEAKER_00]: sound of shattering glass for a long moment during which time seemed to stand still.
[00:09:40] [SPEAKER_00]: All good?
[00:09:41] [SPEAKER_00]: I shouted blindly into the gully after the ear shattering crackling had subsided.
[00:09:45] [SPEAKER_00]: There was no response.
[00:09:47] [SPEAKER_00]: I continued under the hourglass, not fully aware of what danger literally loomed above
[00:09:51] [SPEAKER_00]: my head.
[00:09:53] [SPEAKER_00]: Though no one would remain above me on the steep slope to knock a rock down, even a small
[00:09:57] [SPEAKER_00]: animal would be capable of causing a slide that could put my life at risk.
[00:10:01] [SPEAKER_00]: As careful as I could be, I inch my way down the steep rock face, just against the wall
[00:10:06] [SPEAKER_00]: and open air behind me.
[00:10:09] [SPEAKER_00]: As I approached the steepest part of the gully, my pursuit of the safest down climbing
[00:10:12] [SPEAKER_00]: holes pushed me toward the middle of the shoot, where the rope was, as well as the trickling
[00:10:17] [SPEAKER_00]: water.
[00:10:18] [SPEAKER_00]: Even with the moisture, this path seemed to be the better call.
[00:10:22] [SPEAKER_00]: During the crux of the down climb, I was met with a difficult question, how much can
[00:10:26] [SPEAKER_00]: I really trust this rope?
[00:10:28] [SPEAKER_00]: I knew I couldn't use the rope for any sort of repell, but what about as a balancing aid?
[00:10:33] [SPEAKER_00]: I found a spot where I was fully secure and protected from any sort of rock that might
[00:10:37] [SPEAKER_00]: be at knock loose and I gave the rope a hard tug.
[00:10:40] [SPEAKER_00]: It had the typical dynamic stretch to it, like most climbing ropes do, and it seemed
[00:10:44] [SPEAKER_00]: securely anchor to the wall.
[00:10:46] [SPEAKER_00]: I gave it another tug to the same result.
[00:10:48] [SPEAKER_00]: My judgment was that while the rope might not be trustworthy enough to rely on to repel
[00:10:53] [SPEAKER_00]: down or to climb down, it could perhaps be secure enough to hold me up in a pinch.
[00:10:58] [SPEAKER_00]: If nothing else for the slim chance that it could save my life following a very possible
[00:11:02] [SPEAKER_00]: slip on the wet rock, I straddle the rope and continue to work my way down the hourglass
[00:11:07] [SPEAKER_00]: with careful placement of my hands and feet.
[00:11:10] [SPEAKER_00]: It was the type of route that probably took about twice as long down climbing compared to
[00:11:14] [SPEAKER_00]: climbing up.
[00:11:15] [SPEAKER_00]: Throughout the entire down climb, I stayed extremely attentive to the noises coming from
[00:11:19] [SPEAKER_00]: above, ready to seat cover at a moment's notice.
[00:11:23] [SPEAKER_00]: Eventually, the results of my careful downward struggle came to fruition and I was at
[00:11:27] [SPEAKER_00]: the bottom of the gauly once again, looking up in disbelief at what I had ascended and
[00:11:31] [SPEAKER_00]: subsequently descended over the past few hours.
[00:11:35] [SPEAKER_00]: Exhausted from a long lasting pool on my adrenaline and in a minehase, I made my way back
[00:11:39] [SPEAKER_00]: across the ridge and down to late coma with relative use, soon tacking on five more slow
[00:11:44] [SPEAKER_00]: moving miles as I safely made my way back to my vehicle.
[00:11:48] [SPEAKER_00]: Overall, I found the route to the summit of Little Bear Peak lived up to the hype in a big
[00:11:52] [SPEAKER_00]: way.
[00:11:53] [SPEAKER_00]: It's difficult and dangerous and should be reserved for only the most experienced climbers
[00:11:57] [SPEAKER_00]: that are also comfortable with significant risk and exposure.
[00:12:01] [SPEAKER_00]: On a quest to climb all of Colorado's 58-14,000 foot peaks, 59 if you count sunlight spire,
[00:12:07] [SPEAKER_00]: which I think I do.
[00:12:08] [SPEAKER_00]: I'm glad I submitted Little Bear Peak.
[00:12:11] [SPEAKER_00]: Would I recommend this peak to most?
[00:12:13] [SPEAKER_00]: This is because it's not just the technical nature of the route that makes the climb so
[00:12:17] [SPEAKER_00]: formidable but the unpredictable nature of Rockfall risk.
[00:12:21] [SPEAKER_00]: I probably won't be taking my chances on this peak again anytime soon and if I'm
[00:12:25] [SPEAKER_00]: ever back up there, I'll be opting to travel to nearby Blanca Peak via a class five ridge
[00:12:30] [SPEAKER_00]: traverse down climbing from there versus down climbing the hourglass.
[00:12:34] [SPEAKER_00]: I'm very thankful, I'll probably never have to do that down climb again.
[00:12:44] [SPEAKER_00]: So there you have it, Little Bear Peak lives up to the hype.
[00:12:48] [SPEAKER_00]: It's one of the most notorious 14ers in the state for a reason.
[00:12:51] [SPEAKER_00]: For our next story I'll be diving into how many 14ers there actually are in Colorado.
[00:12:56] [SPEAKER_00]: SunSafe 58, SunSafe 10, SunSafe 74.
[00:12:59] [SPEAKER_00]: Here's a look at how these peaks are counted depending on who you ask.
[00:13:10] [SPEAKER_00]: Serving is the scattered ceiling of the country's most elevated state.
[00:13:14] [SPEAKER_00]: Colorado's 14ers have long held an undeniable alert.
[00:13:18] [SPEAKER_00]: Whether these 14,000 foot mountains are being admired from afar or playing a role in a
[00:13:23] [SPEAKER_00]: voiceless challenger for summit seekers, their significance in Colorado's outdoor recreation
[00:13:28] [SPEAKER_00]: space can't be ignored.
[00:13:30] [SPEAKER_00]: Many hikers in Colorado eventually get bit and buy the 14er bug, casting safety and comfort
[00:13:35] [SPEAKER_00]: side as they add the task of reaching the top of each qualifying peak to their own bucket list.
[00:13:41] [SPEAKER_00]: Some will climb them all, but most will lose interest or be blocked by ability along
[00:13:44] [SPEAKER_00]: the way.
[00:13:46] [SPEAKER_00]: Either way, both groups of climbers have one important question to answer prior to embarking
[00:13:51] [SPEAKER_00]: on their lofty quest.
[00:13:52] [SPEAKER_00]: How many peaks actually count as 14ers in Colorado?
[00:13:57] [SPEAKER_00]: They answered to this question might seem straightforward.
[00:13:59] [SPEAKER_00]: Any peak above the arbitrary height of 14,000 feet.
[00:14:02] [SPEAKER_00]: But it's given rise the plenty of debate over the years.
[00:14:06] [SPEAKER_00]: Two key factors are at play.
[00:14:08] [SPEAKER_00]: What actually counts as a 14er and how the height of a mountain can change over time?
[00:14:13] [SPEAKER_00]: Nowadays, 58 tends to be the most accepted number of 14ers among Colorado's outdoor
[00:14:18] [SPEAKER_00]: recreation community, though some have argued that there are as few as 10-14ers while
[00:14:23] [SPEAKER_00]: others suspect that there may be more than 100.
[00:14:26] [SPEAKER_00]: The discrepancy between these numbers comes down to something called prominence.
[00:14:30] [SPEAKER_00]: The prominence of a mountain is simply defined as its elevation relative to surrounding terrain.
[00:14:36] [SPEAKER_00]: This becomes a factor when accounting for peaks, as the amount of prominence is often used
[00:14:41] [SPEAKER_00]: to define whether an elevated piece of terrain is a separate peak or part of an elevation point
[00:14:46] [SPEAKER_00]: that's already recognized.
[00:14:48] [SPEAKER_00]: If 3000 feet of prominence from surrounding terrain is the requirement to qualify as a unique
[00:14:53] [SPEAKER_00]: mountain, then there are only 10-14ers in Colorado.
[00:14:56] [SPEAKER_00]: While if that prominence threshold is lowered to about 40 feet, there could be at least 74-14ers
[00:15:03] [SPEAKER_00]: that could be found around the Centennial State.
[00:15:06] [SPEAKER_00]: Probably a couple dozen more yet to be accounted for.
[00:15:09] [SPEAKER_00]: The most widely accepted degree of prominence when it comes to Colorado's 14ers
[00:15:13] [SPEAKER_00]: is a prominence rule of 300 feet, though this rule isn't always followed.
[00:15:17] [SPEAKER_00]: For example, Mount Cameron, part of the widely popular 4-peak decralabron loop,
[00:15:23] [SPEAKER_00]: only has a prominence of 118 feet.
[00:15:26] [SPEAKER_00]: That being said, many still count this as a 14er summit to be backed.
[00:15:29] [SPEAKER_00]: Summit sign-in toe is they walk across its hardly noticeable summit.
[00:15:33] [SPEAKER_00]: Mount Cameron is one of five peaks commonly found on most 14er lists that doesn't have
[00:15:38] [SPEAKER_00]: a prominence of at least 300 feet.
[00:15:41] [SPEAKER_00]: Another big factor in determining how many 14ers of present in Colorado is properly assessing
[00:15:46] [SPEAKER_00]: the height of each peak.
[00:15:48] [SPEAKER_00]: With complications often posed by shifting peaks and ever-changing technology, this is easier
[00:15:53] [SPEAKER_00]: said than done.
[00:15:55] [SPEAKER_00]: If you want to hear a more in-depth take on how Colorado's 14ers are measured,
[00:16:00] [SPEAKER_00]: specifically in some of the complications that come along with that,
[00:16:03] [SPEAKER_00]: we covered that in depth in our last podcast episode.
[00:16:06] [SPEAKER_00]: So you'll want to check that one out for sure.
[00:16:09] [SPEAKER_00]: So that I'm not too repetitive, I'm not going to get two in-depth into that today.
[00:16:13] [SPEAKER_00]: But the punchline is basically that technology improves allowing a more accurate reading
[00:16:18] [SPEAKER_00]: of how tall a peak is and that peaks can change over time due to erosion or due to plates
[00:16:24] [SPEAKER_00]: shifting.
[00:16:25] [SPEAKER_00]: This can result in peaks either shrinking or growing or at least the understanding of their height,
[00:16:30] [SPEAKER_00]: increasing or decreasing with a number of peaks within about 20 feet of that 14,000 foot
[00:16:36] [SPEAKER_00]: threshold.
[00:16:36] [SPEAKER_00]: Whether that means moving up to that threshold and passing it or dropping below it.
[00:16:42] [SPEAKER_00]: Perhaps no peak better exemplifies how difficult it is to establish a single universally
[00:16:46] [SPEAKER_00]: accepted number of 14ers in Colorado than the aforementioned sunlight spire.
[00:16:52] [SPEAKER_00]: Once generally accepted as just a tall rock on a ridge line,
[00:16:56] [SPEAKER_00]: it's new measurement at 14,000 and one feet has made that judgment much more controversial.
[00:17:03] [SPEAKER_00]: While this height might justify sunlight spires inclusion on the popular 58-peak 14er list
[00:17:08] [SPEAKER_00]: that also includes mountains like Mount Cameron, North Moron Peak and Kenundrum Peak,
[00:17:13] [SPEAKER_00]: the spire would still be skipped on lists of those respecting the 300 foot prominence rule,
[00:17:19] [SPEAKER_00]: thanks to its prominence of about 215 feet.
[00:17:24] [SPEAKER_00]: It's worth noting that adding sunlight spire to a 14er list would also mean adding
[00:17:29] [SPEAKER_00]: technical rock climbing to the mix.
[00:17:31] [SPEAKER_00]: With the route to sunlight spires summit rated as 510 by far more difficult than any other peak
[00:17:37] [SPEAKER_00]: currently being climbed as a 14er.
[00:17:40] [SPEAKER_00]: Long story short, there's no definitive answer regarding how many 14ers are actually found around
[00:17:45] [SPEAKER_00]: Colorado. Colorado Mountain Club says 54 peaks. The 300 foot prominence rule says that there
[00:17:52] [SPEAKER_00]: are 53 peaks. That being said, the current climbing community seems to accept 58 peaks,
[00:17:59] [SPEAKER_00]: which includes name peaks that don't meet the 300 foot prominence rule but excludes sunlight spire.
[00:18:05] [SPEAKER_00]: Then those with a lower threshold for prominence that also accept unnamed peaks in the ranking
[00:18:10] [SPEAKER_00]: have put the number of 14ers at more than 70, possibly more than 100.
[00:18:15] [SPEAKER_00]: One big question still remains. Does all this even matter?
[00:18:19] [SPEAKER_00]: The mountains don't care what we call them and the 14,000 foot height means nothing to the 90
[00:18:24] [SPEAKER_00]: percent of the world that uses the metric system. Many of the world's most experienced mountaineers
[00:18:29] [SPEAKER_00]: tend to focus more on peaks above 3000 meters or about 10,000 feet.
[00:18:35] [SPEAKER_00]: This is where many mountains around the world can support glaciation, adding a much
[00:18:38] [SPEAKER_00]: more technical aspect to the climb. Meanwhile, around the rest of the country and world,
[00:18:45] [SPEAKER_00]: a lot of local collections exist. For example, the 48,000 foot mountains in New Hampshire
[00:18:51] [SPEAKER_00]: that are called collectively the 4,000 footers. While having a peak bagging checklist
[00:18:58] [SPEAKER_00]: can be a motivator when it comes to achieving long-term goals, it's probably best that
[00:19:02] [SPEAKER_00]: Colorado's peak baggers don't get too caught up on the technicalities.
[00:19:06] [SPEAKER_00]: Colorado's many peaks of all shapes and sizes deserve to be appreciated and respected,
[00:19:11] [SPEAKER_00]: regardless of whether or not they hit 14,000 feet above sea level.
[00:19:16] [SPEAKER_00]: In closing, I'm going to take a little bit of time to chat about a few different 14er counts
[00:19:20] [SPEAKER_00]: ranging from 1 to 74, explaining how each count might make sense.
[00:19:26] [SPEAKER_00]: If required prominence of a peak to count as a 14er was 9,000 feet or more,
[00:19:31] [SPEAKER_00]: Mount Elbert would be the only 14er in Colorado thanks to its prominence of 9,000 and 93 feet.
[00:19:37] [SPEAKER_00]: The next most prominent 14er in Colorado is Pikes Peak with the prominence of 5,530 feet.
[00:19:43] [SPEAKER_00]: No one's out there claiming that Colorado's home to a single 14er but this does show the wide range
[00:19:48] [SPEAKER_00]: of prominence between different peaks. Some people think that Colorado should only have 10
[00:19:54] [SPEAKER_00]: 14ers and this is based on the Alaskan 3000 foot prominence rule.
[00:19:59] [SPEAKER_00]: This list would include Mount Elbert, Pikes Peak, Blancopique, Colabra Peak, Crestdon Peak,
[00:20:05] [SPEAKER_00]: Uncompaguer Apeak, Mount Wilson, Mount Lincoln, Sandlewies Peak, and Mount Snethos.
[00:20:11] [SPEAKER_00]: Long Speak is close with 2,955 feet of prominence.
[00:20:16] [SPEAKER_00]: If you drop that 3000 foot prominence rule down to about 2,000 feet then there would be about
[00:20:21] [SPEAKER_00]: 20 peaks around Colorado that would be considered 14ers. Now I'm going to get into some of the
[00:20:29] [SPEAKER_00]: more widely accepted numbers. Some people think that there are 53 peaks that count as 14ers
[00:20:34] [SPEAKER_00]: and this is based on peaks that have at least 300 feet of prominence. Those that say there should
[00:20:40] [SPEAKER_00]: be 54 peaks are likely referring to the Colorado Mountain Club list which isn't a strict regarding
[00:20:46] [SPEAKER_00]: the 300 foot prominence rule but also includes some peaks based on mountaineering aesthetics.
[00:20:51] [SPEAKER_00]: One key difference between the Colorado Mountain Club list of 54 peaks and the list of 53
[00:20:56] [SPEAKER_00]: peaks that's strictly based on the 300 foot prominence rule is that Challenger point isn't counted
[00:21:02] [SPEAKER_00]: on the Colorado Mountain Club list. Additionally, Colorado Mountain Club does count Eldiente
[00:21:07] [SPEAKER_00]: and North Maroon Peak despite each missing the 300 foot rule. These two peaks are instead included
[00:21:13] [SPEAKER_00]: due to their technicality and beauty. Nowadays the 58 peak list tends to be the most
[00:21:21] [SPEAKER_00]: widely accepted. This is based on name points above 14,000 feet with the exception of sunlight
[00:21:27] [SPEAKER_00]: spire. It's worth noting that this list does include peaks with less than 300 feet of prominence.
[00:21:34] [SPEAKER_00]: Those at claim there are 59-14ers in Colorado are likely taking this 58 peak list and then adding
[00:21:40] [SPEAKER_00]: sunlight spire onto that as well. And then there's one more list that really tends to be
[00:21:46] [SPEAKER_00]: overlooked in a lot of corners of the 14er climbing community and that's Jerry Roch's list of
[00:21:51] [SPEAKER_00]: peaks which is 74 or 14ers. This includes all of the unnamed points of elevation that are above
[00:21:58] [SPEAKER_00]: 14,000 feet that have at least 40 feet of prominence. It basically adds 15 unnamed 14,000 foot peaks
[00:22:05] [SPEAKER_00]: to a name total of 59. So there you have it while most people might think they know how many
[00:22:13] [SPEAKER_00]: 14ers there are in Colorado. That number might not be so clear cut. Thanks so much for tuning
[00:22:31] [SPEAKER_00]: into this episode of the Out There Colorado podcast. Look forward to more episodes soon to come
[00:22:37] [SPEAKER_00]: generally on a weekly basis. This episode was written by me Spencer McKee and has been produced in
[00:22:42] [SPEAKER_00]: house by Sam Shinaker. If you don't mind, please leave us a review or a rating on whatever platform
[00:22:48] [SPEAKER_00]: we're using to tune in. These are hugely appreciated. Until next time, I'm signing off from the
[00:22:53] [SPEAKER_00]: beautiful city of Colorado Springs, Colorado. Keep getting out there, Colorado.

